The Odyssey, Part 8 – Flew the Cooperstown

We woke up the morning of Aug 18 to some down-home Holiday Inn, egg-in-a-carton, conveyor-belt-toaster, do-it-yourself-waffle, gourmet breakfast spread. Ready to hit the road once again, we jumped back on the I-90 for a three hour eastward stretch.

We had been fortunate with the driving weather; other than encountering torrential rains along the Lake Erie stretch, the roads were dry and visibility was excellent. This day was a bit grey, but the route itself was relatively uneventful:

  • I-90 North for about 2-3 minutes towards Williamsville.
  • Continue to the east on I-90 for 203 miles (327 km), passing outside such hockey hotbeds as Rochester to our north, Syracuse to our south, and the smaller town of Utica, NY. Continue to Herkimer / Mohawk, and exit on NY-28.
  • Travel due south for 40 minutes through Dennison Corners, South Columbia, along the shores of Canadarago Lake, the community of Schuyler Lake, Cattown (two ‘T’s), Fly Creek, Index (yes…the hamlet of Index), and finally reaching our destination in Hartwick Seminary.

I have just listed a bunch of town names that I find amusing for one reason or another. Since I’ve long broken my ‘unnecessary tangents’ rule, here are some random thoughts I had whilst driving through this part of the country:

  • When mapping out the route, I was recognizing the names of cities along the way without ever having been there. I trace it back to my high school days in Halifax, NS in the early 1990’s. At that time, the city had a professional minor league hockey team called the Halifax Citadels, the Quebec Nordique’s affiliate from 1988-1993. I was a hockey and baseball nut then, trying my hand as a skating-challenged goaltender in various recreational leagues during the winter, and avoiding ground balls to the face playing third base during the summer. Two of the Citadels’ opponents were the Rochester Americans (or Amerks), the affiliate of the Buffalo Sabres, and the Utica Devils, the New Jersey Devils affiliate from 1987-1993. As for Syracuse, the Chiefs / SkyChiefs were the AAA affiliate of my beloved Toronto Blue Jays until as recently as 2018.
  • The village of Mohawk was a stopping place for General George Washington during tours of the region in 1783. The Valley Tavern on Main St, known in Washington’s time as the Shoemaker Tavern, burned down in 1973. I personally found Mohawk to be somewhat bleak and dilapidated, a vestige of once-vibrant rural towns that dotted our journey.
  • Canadarago Lake, although not named after my home country, does seem rooted in the same Huron-Iroquois word for village or settlement. It means ‘the lake that lies alongside the village’.
  • Schuyler Lake is a community name but there is no matching body of water on the map. As it turns out, Canadarago Lake was historically known as Schuyler Lake. Isn’t history fun…and weird?

You are probably wondering why our destination was Hartwick Seminary. In fact, even I didn’t know that was our destination until I was researching for this post; our hotel was the ‘Holiday Inn Cooperstown’, but the civic address was in a hamlet about 8 km south.

Cooperstown is a village within the town of Otsego, a Mohawk or Oneida word meaning ‘place of the rock’. It refers to Council Rock, a prominent rock partially submerged off the shore of Lake Otsego. It is home to around 1800 people and for a number of years, was famously known as the birthplace of baseball. If you recall the term ‘sister city’ from an earlier post, Cooperstown is twinned with Windsor, Nova Scotia, due to the latter’s claims of being the birthplace of hockey. The village attracts 260,000 tourists each year to the Baseball Hall of Fame, featured downtown on Main St. Founded by William Cooper in 1786, the village of Otsego was renamed in 1812 after he became a county judge and state congressman.

Notable year-round or summer residents of Cooperstown include:

  • James Fenimore Cooper (left) – William’s son was an accomplished author, writing historical fiction during the frontier period. His masterpiece is the romantic novel, The Last of the Mohicans.
  • Samuel F.B. Morse – A friend of James, he was a portrait painter before helping invent a single-wire telegraph and co-developing Morse code.
  • Abner Doubleday – Civil War officer and supposed inventor of baseball (since discredited).
  • Erastus Flavel Beadle – Pioneer of pulp fiction publishing and creator of the dime novel (included mainly because of the awesome name 🙂 ).

You generally approach the town from the south. During peak times of year when parking is at a premium, it is recommended that you park on the hill above and take the Cooperstown Trolley about 2 km. We decided to chance it and managed to find a meter close to town hall. As you can imagine, baseball is everywhere; all gifts shops and restaurants have baseball-themed items adorned on walls and displays. In the photo below left, we see yet another obstacle smack in the middle of an intersection blocking our view of Mickey’s Place, a clothing store named after Mickey Mantle, a Yankee Hall of Famer. Below right, residing in the old Augur’s Books location, is the Cooperstown Beverage Exchange and Tasting bar. We had a couple of drams of their whiskey lineup, with the Cooperstown Select Straight Bourbon Whiskey Single Barrel being the favourite. Naturally, they too have jumped on the baseball train, with a series of exclusive decanters!

We had a late breakfast so it wasn’t until early afternoon when we decided to have an appetizer snack somewhere. I shall not name the establishment but will say that it was off a side street not too far from the main drag. We ordered nachos, and we all had an expectation of nachos. Preferably these nachos would have a combo of cheese, veggies, and protein baked and served with sour cream and salsa. I think they managed to get the salsa right; we received a plate of corn chips with a warmish, cheese-like sauce poured over the top. There may have been flecks of jalapeno in the sauce, but he disappointment was palpable. It tasted okay but certainly not worth the money. To add insult to injury, the bottled beers were warm.

After what amounted to our lunch, we made our way to the hallowed Hall of Fame:

Forgive me as I nerd out for a moment: I’ve been an avid ball fan since the late ’80’s and have always been fascinated my the stories, the players, and the statistics. I have memorized most of the individual seasonal and all-time records and can rhyme off a good share of the players enshrined in the hall. I really didn’t know what to expect, but naturally didn’t budget enough time to soak it all in. After watching the introductory film that ran in the theatre every 15 minutes, we spent a good two hours browsing, but easily could have extended the visit by at least two more. Usually, my parents and fiancée would patiently wait for me to pore over the placards and displays before moving on. Below is a very small sample of the pictures taken that day. I have at least seventy from inside and couldn’t resist shooting anything that caught my eye.

We begin with the placard that hangs to the right of the first door pictured above. It is to commemorate the first inductees. I have included ‘The First Class’ panel that sits at the far end of the actual hall that is attached to the museum. Of the class, Babe Ruth, Honus Wagner, Ty Cobb and Walter Johnson were in attendance. The missing member is Christy Mathewson, a pitcher who played until 1916 and won 373 major league games. Sadly, after serving in WW1, he passed in 1925 from tuberculosis at age 45.

Below left: An entire section devoted to the legend that was George Herman ‘Babe’ Ruth.

Below Centre: Every major league team has it’s own locker with game-used equipment from historical moments in their history. The most recent addition to the Toronto Blue Jays locker is the “AL” batting helmet worn by current star Vladimir Guerrero Jr during the 2021 All-Star Game. He homered and was the game’s MVP.

Below Right: Norman Rockwell’s Tough Call

The next three shots pay homage to the “Man of Steal”, Rickey Henderson. Somewhat of a showboat, Rickey was known for speaking in the third person and tormenting pitchers both in the batter’s box and on the bases. Sadly, he passed away from pneumonia on Dec 20, five days short of his 66th birthday. He played 44 games for my beloved Jays in 1993, helping them to a second World Series title. Below is 1) artwork of Rickey early in his career (number 35, he switched to his famous 24 in 1985) with his customary head-down takeoff for second base, 2) his HoF plaque, and 3) a dedicated display of Rickey’s stolen base records. All time, his total of 1406 is 468 more than second place, and the active major league leader has a whopping 354, so his record is safe for awhile.

Finally, the plaque of one of my favourite Jays, Roy Halladay. Unfortunately, he also left us way too soon, losing his life at age 40 in a plane crash over the Gulf of Mexico.

My prize from the visit was a pair of Vladdy Guerrero Jr. rookie cards snagged from the gift-shop. There is plenty of unique swag available for my fellow baseball lovers. One can do plenty of damage to the wallet roaming around in there too long.

It was nearing suppertime, and thanks to Dr. Bob’s strong recommendation, we descended on Brewery Ommegang. Tracing it’s roots back to 1549 when King Charles V visited Brussels, the resulting celebratory parade became know as the Ommegang, loosely meaning coming together and walking about. To present day, the tradition continues in the Belgian capital.

This brewery however is not so old; established in 1997, it has grown enormously and has begun exporting its Belgian ales to almost every state, Canada, and overseas. The complex is sprawling. I have included some pictures and an accompanying birds-eye view with numbered vantage points for each. The large purple dot is the outdoor dining area off the taproom. The field out back has a disc-golf course, and during the summers, will offer camping and live concerts.

The taproom and outdoor settings were lovely. It was misty and damp on this occasion, but neither quelled our good spirits. The menu is limited but tasty. We munched on some brussel sprouts followed by the OMG burger and a side of macaroni salad. Unable to choose a brew, we opted for a flight that included a Witte, a wheat ale, Rare VOS, an amber with citrus notes, their flagship Three Philosophers, a Belgian quadrupel ale (9.7% abv!), and something called Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial Keep It Crunchy, a granola stout aged for 11 months (10.3%!!).

After a full day, we made our way back to the hotel to debrief on the days events and fight with the smart TV remote.

Only one more full day in the US before crossing the border to home soil. In our next installment, I recount a regrettable pharmacy experience on our way out of NY state, a crossing of Vermont to the New Hampshire border, and one of the best pasta dishes I’ve ever tasted!

See you then!

Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any agency, employer or affiliation.